Breaking Out Again In Paris

Each time, I prepared “mes sorties”, or outings, during confinement, I would feel this slight anxiety as I went through my mental checklist.

Authorization QR code or paper?  Did I fill it out correctly?  Did I bring my French ID card?  Am I going beyond the allotted one kilometer?  My mask?

After all, I had already been checked three separate times by the gendarmes.  So, last Tuesday it felt quite strange to leave free as a bird except for the mask, carrying only my concern about the virus.

I was “breaking” out of my Paris fast, imposed over two months ago by this deadly virus, confining me to my own arrondissement, however pleasant of a one that it is.

For my first outing, I wanted to see the Seine again and check out some petunias.  Some journalists had said it was clear and the waters were as still as a lake!

Unbelievable! The Seine without its strong visible current? For me, that meant heading to Ile de La Cité to the Marché aux Fleurs(flowers) where I could check them both out at the same time.

Flower and plant stores had been closed, making replenishing my balcony annuals difficult with only grocery store offerings.

  Besides, I love just walking around the area for fun and historical sights.  The river vistas are a feast for the eyes at any time.

Ile de la Cité is a small island where the city of Paris all started. The Parissi tribe of fishermen made camp before the Romans took over, naming the new city Lutece for its beautiful light.

However naively, I was wondering if just maybe I could catch a glimpse of how the waters might have looked to them so many years ago.

Bus 38 takes me right there leaving me in front of the Palace de Justice next to La Sainte Chapelle.  Every other seat was blocked to respect distancing and yes all passengers wore masks.

It felt initially a little strange going up Blvd St. Michel again, passing Les Jardins Luxemburg, still closed without its habitual chestnut and ice creams stands in front.

The ruins of the Romans bath at the Cluny Museum looked the same of course!  The essential Paris never really changes, just our impressions of it during our lifetime.

I ran to the Quai and peered over the well-worn stone wall with all the anticipation of a kid.  Beautiful vistas as usual, with a lot fewer people, but the clarity of the river?

Well, it was a slight downside to see that the Seine had its usual murky green waters and it certainly wasn’t as calm as a lake!  But, it was still as beautiful as ever to my eyes.

True, no tourist boats have plied its waters in over two months, but I saw a huge long barge smoothly glide under the old low hanging bridges leaving a wake of rippling waves.

At least the sky above looked as blue as ever and Notre Dame still bravely stood erect, waiting for workers to restore her back to her pristine glory.

Half of the flower vendors were open and I found an enticing spotted pink petunia, I knew I just had to have.  Of course, before I bought her, I had to cross to the other side to check out the other flower stores on Quai de la Messagerie.

There were some more spotted ones there too!  I picked up a blue one and an unusual red yellow striped one before I went back to get that luscious pink one.

This time, I went back on the metro, another straight line to chez moi on line 4.  Again very few passengers with alternating seat placings and tags on the floor to indicating spacing.

Sunday, I wanted to see what Trocadero and the La Tour Eiffel looked like au naturel without tourists.

This time bus 92 from my avenue left me on the Quai Alma Marceau, across the Seine from the golden domes of the new Russian Orthodox Cathedral.

The walk along the Quai felt good with the cooling river breezes.

The Musée d’ Art Moderne looked lonely and devoid of people usually gathered in the outdoor cafe terraces that offer a splendid view.

The Seine looked empty with all the Bateaux Mouches moored and locked up.  The Ducasse dinner barge was parked too with someone washing their deck.

I did see some lucky sunbathers stretched out in the sun on the back end of private barges taking in a privileged view of the Seine and tower.

It was fairly warm in the sun and I noticed that walking up the rather steep incline to the top platform of  Lae Palais de Chaillot in front of Place Trocadero seemed more fatiguing than usual wearing a mask.  After all, I was inhaling mostly expired deoxygenated breath!

I have never seen the outlook platform with so little people!  Usually, the entire edge is full of tourists snapping selfies or photos of the Eifel Tower to the degree you wait your turn to grab a spot.

The fountains, normally full of frolicking children splashing in the shallow basins on a warm day looked parched and dry.  Is the city waiting for tourists to return before they turn back on the usually fabulous fountains?

Gone were the masses of street vendors with arms laded full of miniature Eiffel souvenirs, various other trinkets and whatnots that crowd both sides of the sidewalk and everywhere hoping to make a sell.

All are immigrants just trying to make an honest buck, and I always feel sorry for them, but it was nice not to have to dodge their wares spread along the sidewalks.

As I climbed onto the platform of Line 6 metro at Trocadero, I was shocked to find it completely bare of any passengers on either side other than myself; a never before seen sight!

Line 6 runs from the Arc de Triomph to Nation and is heavily frequented at all times by tourists wanting to visit La Tour Eiffel.  At any given time, there are so many various spoken languages it sounds like a tower of Babel!

Just another blatant indicator of the missing masses of tourists that make up the bulk of daily crowds here.  No worry about finding a seat either on this line,  as there were only three of us in the entire car.

 

Yesterday, I had another yen besides checking out some more petunias.  Ice cream!  More specifically rose petale ice cream made with some mastic from Bachir’s Lebanese ice cream place over by the Pompidou Center.

 

 

 

Taking line 4 again, I got out at Les Halles.  I saw only a few other folks on Rue Rambuteau near the magnificent cathedral of Saint Eustache that lies in front of the newly carved out garden.

Leroy Merlin, a French home depot like store is nearby and also sells plants displayed out front.  I wasn’t disappointed there weren’t any petunias, because I could go directly to get the ice cream!

I like the rose flavoured ice cream from Aleph’s pastry shop too, but Bachirs gives you two scoopes for less!  After having drenched my hands in alcohol gel offered at the entrance, I clutched the filled sugar cone with care as I headed out for a spot to enjoy it.

The Pompidou center was totally covered with scaffolding probably taking advantage of being closed for renovation work I guess.

Strangely, even the massive amount of pigeons were missing. Perhaps they have given up hope of finding any spilled fries or pieces of crepes to nibble on that countless tourists drop here and there.

I perched myself on a shaded spot in front of the vacant cafés on Rue Brise Miche in front of the Stravinsky fountain all by my lonesome self. Taking off my mask I felt I could finally breathe in some fresh air again and happily indulge in my ice cream cone!  Freedom!

I rarely allow myself such a treat, as I am pretty self-disciplined with any bought sweets.  I discovered that I have lost the art of tackling an ice cream without dabbing some whipped cream on my nose and cheek.

Nevertheless, I relished every tiny bite, slowly nibbling the apricot scoop first while trying to catch the rose cream from dripping on my hand.

I walked down the narrow old Rue des Juges Consuls with its buckled medieval buildings to Rue de la Verrerie and turn towards Hotel De Ville.

The Merry Go Round was missing and only a few people were hanging around.

Once again at the Quai, I swung back towards Quai de la Messagerie to check one more time for any new colored petunias.

Villemorin, one of the oldest seed and plant purveyors had one lonely dappled red that I grabbed which the grumpy old cashier would not wrap with paper.  I knew to bring my own bags though as those are extra, which I am all for to protect the environment.

I found an orange/white New Guinea impatiens for a steal at another stand who this time happily wrapped it with a smile.

Gingerly balancing my two new plants in a bag so as to not break off any tender buds, I crossed the Seine at the Conciergerie to catch line 4 metro back home.

It is always a beautiful view with La Tour Eiffel at the end.  Yes, the Seine did look calmer and sirene!

Petunias and rose petal ice cream are simple pleasures that bring me joy anytime. Being able to get out again to see my beloved Paris just made it a more monumental celebration!