Paris In August, In Praise Of Quiet!

Come June and July, casual conversation with neighbors seems to be proliferated with the big V question.  That is preciously, “where are you going on vacation?”.

“Je vais rester ici.  Août c’est mon mois préféré à Paris!”.  My matter of fact announcement that I am staying put and that August is my favourite month in Paris is always met with a rather puzzled look.

I go on to explain that I love the exquisite quiet that August brings!   You see, Paris is practically emptied of about half of its residents at that time.

The incredible beauty, flowers, monuments, statues, squares, parks and tree lined avenues  are still here minus having to dodge the constant crowds.

There is a calmness in the air that makes me want to walk with a slower stride and tempo.  Paris is definitely different in August!

Sure there are still loads of tourists, especially in the more touristic quartiers, but in the more residential arrondissements, quiet reigns for a brief time only!

It is the ritual month of vacations for the French, if they haven’t already scurried off to the beach for the month of July.  People who vacation in July are called Juilletistes versus those who leave in August called Aoûtiens.

This week of August the 15th, which is the national holiday of Assumption, empties out even more souls. Those who may be still here take off to be with family for the holiday.

I have often heard other Parisians say that can’t stand hot muggy Paris in August and that everything is closed. True, there are a lot of small restaurants, bakeries and businesses closed, but for me, that is all the merrier for lowering the decibels!

Hot muggy Paris in August has been replaced with cooler temperatures after the searing sizzling furnace blasts of Sahara air in June and July of this year with record breaking temperatures.

Getting away from hot temperatures in Paris was tricky this year, for even the Alps in France and Switzerland were almost as hot, and well the southern part of France was even more sizzling!

Noise pollution here is for me just as bothersome as air pollution.  Most residents wail about the polluted air, mostly from car emissions, with diesel being targeted as being the worst.

I live on one of the largest north south arteries of the city.  Though it is not the loudest one in Paris, it is in the top 12  or so.  The drone of traffic is constant.  I can always tell if its raining by the swishing noise from tires on the pavement since I can’t hear the rain above the street noise.

Car horn honking by angry and impatient drivers are worst in the late afternoon when the avenues are slowed to a stall by droves of cars hell-bent getting out of the city.

The screeching police sirens and bleeping hee-haw of ambulances trying to squeeze through clogged traffic is a regular nuisance. Then there is the ding ding bell of buses and trams adverting others to get out of their way.

The worst sounds to my ears are the motorcycles, bar none!  The small inexpensive ones, seem to have a higher pitch shrill that intensifies as they change gears.

Then there are others that have a horrible dragging sounds like metal scraping concrete. Paris would definitely be much quieter if motos were outlawed.

Trucks changing gears and with squeaky brakes add to the stew of irritating noises.  Of course, I have only mentioned the motorised machinery running around the city constantly.

After midnight into the wee hours of the morning are the drunk students singing their way back to Cité Universitaire.  Later on I can hear a few of the street people carousing loudly.

Between 4 and 5 am, I usually shut my balcony doors to block out the increasing surge of traffic that starts to pour back into the city and the noise of the daily garbage trucks.

In August I can usually leave them open all night long due to traffic being down. On Sunday morning I can even have the pleasure of hearing the chirping of birds.

Sunday I walked towards park Montsouris and only crossed one other lone human being on the way. The corner café across the park, Chin Chin, looked practically barren, whereas on other Sundays is always very crowded.

The park still had some a few families on the lawn of course, but the ice cream man looked lonely when at other times there is a long line of customers waiting their turn.

The merry go round was still running and the little buvette(cafe/bar) next to it selling crepes and drinks was open to a few folks though.  The kiosk where concerts are held did have a salsa group going.

I wonder what the ducks and swans think about their huge pond being so much quieter than usual,  minus the squeals of delight from children throwing bread out to them.

The two sleepy eyed ponies, instead of the usual five, dozing off into space, were probably appreciating the downtime with not a young customer in sight.

Monday, I met a friend who wanted hot chocolate at Un Dimanche à Paris near Odeon.  It is located on a very picturesque old bumpy cobblestone pathway called Cour de Commerce  Saint  André, across from Place Odeon.

 

It is usually bounding with tourists and residents alike, but looked rather desolate in comparison to other months.  The terraces were practically vacant, though Place Odeon was fairly busy.

I walked to Rue Daguerre yesterday to check out my own quartier’s busier areas.  Rue Daguerre is one of Paris’s well known foodie streets and is always bustling morning to night.

Several bakeries and the hugely popular fish market were closed, but some green grocers were open and there were some shoppers like myself milling around.

The most famous and expensive butcher of Paris, around the corner, Hugo Desnoyer was closed for a whole month.

Since Paris is the most heavily visited city in the world, it will look crowded in certain places of course such as around Saint Michel, Il de La Cité and the Champs, along with long lines at the Museums.

Americans businesses would shudder at the thought of losing revenue for  3 or 4 weeks, but here with small business owners and restaurants, annual vacation closings are routine.

Time off for vacation is considered a sacred right!  Most working French will have at least 4 to 5 weeks or more paid vacation, plus all the other national holidays.

Don’t expect that little bistro you have been hearing about to be open in August, nor your favourite poissonnerie(fishmarket), bakery or butcher.

The outdoor food marchés look sparse in August as the majority of merchants disappear on vacation too.  You learn to check ahead of time for closures, before you set out anywhere.

The famous three and most two star restaurants do stay open, but don’t expect the renown chef to be there presiding.  Department stores and supermarkets will all be open and all tourist related activites and stores as well.

Tomorrow, you will find me walking in the Notre Dame Assumption procession that will still take place.  Starting on Pont

Saint Louis, it will proceed across the pont Archevêché down the quai to Saint Michel and wind its way to eglise Saint Sulpice, where the sacred Mass will be held for the faithful.

Chanting the Hail Mary in four languages and singing various hymns of praise, including the Ave Maria to Holy Mary Theotokos always fills me with awe and is a beautiful and prayerful meditative walk for me.

Streets will be cleared and those lining the sidewalks have in the past always offered a reverent silence as the procession passes  by.   Once again, the uplifting songs of devotion to Notre Dame(Our Lady) will flow well above the gathered crowds to honor Her.