Saint Sulpice Church And Sweet Temptations

Saint Sulpice is the adopted church of  Notre Dame, while the burned cathedral is being renovated.  The Archbishop of Paris and Notre Dame clergy give masses there on Sunday evenings at 6:30 pm, until they will eventually switch to Saint Eustache.

Saint Sulpice is actually only a little smaller than Notre Dame, has a massive and powerful organ and its own unique beauty as all churches, worth seeing for several reasons.  Plus, the quartier has some famous sweet temptations of pastries, chocolate and ice cream.

It was built in 1646, replacing a much older church dating from the earlier centuries, by Jean Jacque Olier who was influenced by Saint Vincent  De Paul, whose preserved body can be seen not too far from Saint Sulpice on Rue de Sevres.

There are many really beautiful churches in Paris to visit,  so I thought I would write about some and their surrounding quartiers for those Paris bound or armchair tourists.

Yesterday was Pentecost Monday, a national holiday here following the actual Pentecost celebrated in Catholic churches on Sunday. The streets and gardens were full of tourists and residents alike as I started my walk on the northern edge of Luxembourg gardens.

Saint Sulpice is in the 6th arrondissement of Pairs, sandwiched between the gardens and blvd Saint Germain and bordered by Rue Bonapart and Rue Garanciere.

I am often in the area for various reasons, be it cultural, gastronomy, shopping and the Apple store closest to me.  The famous pastry and chocolate boutiques aren’t the only pull as the narrow Latin Quarter streets are always pleasant and interesting to meander around.

Because of the holiday, many small shops were closed, but you would have never guessed by looking at the crowds everywhere.

You can certainly take in both Luxembourg gardens and Saint Sulpice if you don’t mind a lot of walking and are short of time.  You can either start from Saint Sulpice,  Odeon or Mabillon Metro or from Luxembourg gardens.

If beginning from Luxembourg, you can fortify yourself with some hot chocolate at Angelina’s next to the Luxembourg Museum, which always houses interesting exhibitions that can be seen in an hour or so.

The old La Maison de Poupee doll shop is still on the corner of Rue Servandoni and Vaugirard offering vintage dolls. Heading toward the church on Rue Ferue you will pass by number 6, a lovely old mansion behind gates, where Hemingway lived briefly with his second wife in more prosperous times.

I had hoped to get some ice cream from Pierre Geronimi, a Corsican award-winning, glacier, but his shop was closed.

The whole front plaza of Saint Sulpice was full of white tents for the Salon de Poesie and Art, surrounding the magnificent fountain that was dry for the event.

I always start on the right side as I enter the church to gaze at the three Delacroix paintings, found in the Chapelle des Anges. Delacroix started them around 1850 and liked to paint them on Sundays as he felt inspired by the music of sung Masses.

You can also visit the Delacroix Museum, which was the artist’s house across Blvd Saint Germain which has a lovely garden.

Saint Sulpice has several mysterious elements, made famous by the book DaVinci Code.  I know that it bothers the clergy to have tourists come in solely to see the summer solstice plaque and obelisk, but that happens also with tourists at Notre Dame.

The marble obelisk is called a gnomon, which is an astrological variant of a sundial of the 18th century to indicate the date of  Easter. It was installed in Saint Sulpice in 1743 and from there is a brass line that goes to the plaque on the other side of the church to indicate where the summer solstice high noon rays hit.

Depending on the seasonal solstices, the sun’s rays that come in through the southern window hit several points along the line and up to the top of the gnomon.

It does not coincide with the Paris longitudinal north-south meridian that once was the prime point of measure before taken by Greenwich.   The actual Paris meridian is just east of the church and leads to the Paris Observatory in the 14 arrondissement down through Parc Montsouris where you will find another brass Arago medallion as a marker.

Saint Sulpice has one of the few if only seen vessels holding holy water that has been blessed for the faithful to take away. There is a warning to not open the faucet forcefully to prevent flooding the floor.

In the back of the church is a lovely chapel dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary, where noon masses are often held.  As in all European Catholic churches, there are several side chapels dedicated to various saints, each with excellent frescos.

The front border of the church faces Rue Bonapart, where I often go to hear concerts at the Hungarian Institute. Kitty cornered north on the same street is one of Pierre Hermes pastry shops.

On Rue du Vieux Colombier there is a most unusual tiny Christian café that has been there for ages, where one can go for very simple fare and have someone to talk about the Gospels. Across the other side is Michalak pastries.

On the northern border is Rue Saint Sulpice, a tree-shaded place to sit where you will find an Annick Goutal perfume store and further down a chocolate mouse bar by the chocolatier Chapon.

Just slightly north is old but recently renovated Saint Germain Marché.  Inside the tall arcades, you will find a covered marché selling all sorts of fine produce, wines, fish etc, and a good Greek deli and bordered with an Apple store along with other brand name boutiques.

Across from the marché is Mulot pastries and tea salon. On Rue du Seine heading north to Odeon is Arnaud Larher pastries and also  Pierre Marcolini chocolates, both closed for the holiday.

After looking at all the wonderful pastries, I was tempted into having something sweet like some ice cream from Grom, an excellent Italian glacier just across Blvd Saint Germain.

After several long minutes of conflicted contemplation, I left empty-handed.

I enjoy admiring all the beautiful pastries and sweets in the windows, a calorie-free delight,  as long as you don’t give in buying one!

After all, I knew I would want more of my delicious fresh apricot almond tarte I had made Sunday night.  Certainly more rustic looking than the professionals, but less sugar and equally sumptuous!

 

 

 

 

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