Irresistible Istanbul

The ferry ride across the Bosphorus, in the blistering hot sun, provided my first view of the magnificent Hagia Sophia slowly becoming more visible, as the ferry slowed to dock in Eminonu, the old city’s port.  Newly arrived, I felt suddenly  plunged into a kaleidoscope of colorful  sights, smells, and sounds that might as well been 100 years ago.

Masses of humanity surrounded me, each scurrying here and there, amongst the sun bronzed hawkers of roasted corn, trinkets, fruit juices and ring shaped sesame breads(simit) piled high on wooden poles.

Making my way through the thick crowd with trailing luggage in order to find the tram was not an easy feat.  Figuring out how to charge up the Istanbulkart( a transport card) at the tram station wasn’t either.

The air-conditioned tram gave me brief respite from the heat before it finally arrived at Sultanahmet, called the “old city” as if other areas of Istanbul aren’t old enough already.  Meandering through the park led me through the wide strip called the Hippodrome, where Roman chariot races were held and that ran in front of Hagia Sophia and the nearby Blue Mosque.

With just a generalised idea on how to get to my hotel, and with poorly marked streets, I followed a descending path towards the sea, relying on my excellent sense of orientation to get me there.  After a few wrong turns, and finally asking for directions, I arrived at my destination.

I usually prefer to get an apartment, but not finding one with a balcony and view, I opted for a hotel, which promised both.  The balcony overlooked the blue Sea of Marmara,  was wonderful to sit out with occasional cooling breezes, looking at the ships sail by, though marred somewhat by the construction cranes used in digging a tunnel that will run under the sea to the Asia side of Istanbul.

Straddling two continents, Istanbul really does come across as the crossroads of the East and the West. Since it was my first time here, the most obvious notable culture was the landscape dotted with multiple mosques and tall minarets blaring calls to prayer fives times a day.

I was immediately struck also by the friendliness, easy smiles, and helpfulness of the Turkish people towards me and all tourists, who filled the streets.  I felt safe except for the young little boys with sticky fingers that seemed to come out of nowhere around the tram stations, but fortunately for me quickly scattered away by the sharp eyes of policeman.

Istanbul was for a long time the center of Christendom, and that aspect really called me to devote my second day(a Sunday) sifting through the ages of her Christian religious significance, with Hagia Sophia first on my list.  She was the mother church of all Christians till Constantinople was conquered by the Ottomans in the mid 15th century.

Hagia Sophia left an indelible impression on me, whose energy seared through my psyche.  I was totally in awe of her beauty, however ravaged by time, earthquakes, the forth crusades latin christians, and when many of her priceless and exquisite mosaics were sadly painted over after being converted into a mosque in 1453, by the invading Ottoman.

Hagia Sophia stayed a mosque till 1935, at which time it was turned into a museum.  The magnificent dome surrounding by mini domes dominates with Blessed Mother Mary and infant Jesus gazing over the entire nave as a permanent witness of Hagia Sophia’s original spiritual significance.

Hagia Sophia that we see today replaced an earlier church, and this monumental building was completed in 537 taking only five years and 10 months to build, which is in itself an incredible feat, considering that Notre Dame took 87 .  Though the original dome collapsed during an earthquake and was rebuilt only to be damaged again during another one, the entire church has stayed intact, miraculous surviving several more earthquakes in her history.

The sweet energy of Holy Wisdom is still there. impregnated in every stone crevice, as if patiently awaiting being reconsecrated again a church. However improbable that is, it would be her second miracle, a triumphal celebration of her original beauty and purpose of being a center of Christian worship on that site from the 3rd century till 1453.

The Basilica Cistern was the second most impressive architectural marvel seen.  Built beneath the old basilica, by the Romans in the fifth century, it had the capacity to store 100,000 tons of water for the residents of Constantinople, and it remains perfectly intact.

The 336 marble columns and arches, softly lit and reflected in the water are impressive , as is the whole ingenuous construction.   The prevailing mysterious atmosphere, where drips of water are heard falling into the basin is eerie.  The three heads of Medusa, decorating the bottoms of three columns, one of which is purposely turned upside down has for many years intrigued all who venture down.

Next on my list for that sunday was to see some more mosaics at the Chora church, now a museum, that once again suffered the same fate of being damaged while it was turned into a mosque. The mosaics are exquisitely stunning in the artistry, with minutely detailed designs depicting  Christ, Blessed Mother Mary and the apostles.

Searching for a Mass to top off the day was challenging at best, but walking in the former old European merchants quarter, we were lucky to find one at Saint Mary Draperis, a small and rather hidden, but pretty Catholic church where Mass was said in Spanish.

A Bosphorus cruise was initially spoiled somewhat by a massive rainstorm, but nevertheless was lovely when the rains stopped and the hot sun reappeared. The cruise didn’t go all the way to the Black sea, but was ample enough to see all the major sites on both banks.

The spice market was absolutely marvellous and even though I went back twice, I could have spent hours more going from one stall to another of brightly colored mounds of spices, dried fruits, teas, oils, and dangling dried vegetables.

All of my senses were overwhelmingly titillated and thrust into immediate over gear, especially visually and olfactively, with the incredible sweet and pungent odors that engulfed me at each step through the dimly lit labyrinth of corridors, where it was easy to get lost.

Aside from the spirituality of Hagia Sophia, I wanted to see the Greek Patriarchate church of Saint George.   The Greek Patriarch Bartholomew I of Constantinople resides there and is the spiritual leader over 300 million Eastern Orthodox throughout the world.  It is considered their Mother Church after haven been driven from Hagia Sophia during the Ottoman takeover.

After lighting candles, we were lucky to have arrived just in time for vespers. Though there were only four of us in the church, the priest did come and bless us with the sweet incense swinging from his smouldering metal censer. .

I felt much sadness for their loss of Hagia Sophia and the great schism that has since divided Christendom into multiple branches of Christianity.   I prayed that one day there can be reunification at least of the two main streams of Christianity sadly divided today.

Another key place I wanted to visit was the Florence Nightingale Museum, located within the northern headquarters of the  Turkish Military.  After faxing a copy of our passports along with a request to visit, it was an easy ferry ride to the Asian side again, where we were met with several strict, but quite understandable scrutiny and searches before being able to enter the compound, which was beautifully landscaped I might add.

Cameras were not permitted, therefore no photos.  Florence Nightingale, considered the founder of modern day nursing, came here in 1854, along with 38 nuns to care for British soldiers during the Crimean war.

Her treatment room, and living quarters were in a large tower, that once comprised the a British military hospital and offered a wonderful view over Istanbul.  We were guided by a handsome and very knowledgable young military officer who spoke impeccable English.  He explained that Florence and her helpers drastically reduced the death rate by their care and treatment.

In addition to showing us around the museum, he was wonderful in answering my many questions about  past Turkish military engagements and history.   I was especially intrigued with learning about the Turkish revolution that overthrew the Ottomans in 1923.

Lead by Mustafa Ataturk, considered the father of the modern day Republic of  Turkey, he courageously turned Turkey into a secular nation providing women with equal rights and the right to vote, before several other European nations. He modernised the whole educational system, and literally brought many socio economic reforms that improved the daily lives of the Turkish people.

The Archeology Museum was very interesting, especially in recreating the many layers of history that all contributed to modern day Istanbul.  Topaki Palace certainly had many opulent  rooms filled with gorgeous richly colored tiles, but overall the energy there felt scattered and oppressive, especially visiting the harem quarters.

The Blue Mosque is very impressive from the outside, especially lit at night with pretty stained glass windows throughout and a monumental circular chandelier suspended from the dome. I had brought my own scarf, but capes and skirting was provided for women, along with plastic bags  to carry removed shoes.

I liked the very ecumenical welcome sign that said whether you are atheist, agnostic, Catholic, Orthodox, Jew, Christian, Hindu, or Buddhist, to please say hello, hoping that you would find the Blue Mosque a peaceful place of prayer.

After spending hours rigorously sifting through multiple sources for restaurants, including several Istanbul food blogs, Istanbul Eats, Culinary Backstreet Istanbul, Chowhound and yes Trip Advisor, I complied my list of where I wanted to eat, which is always essential research before I go anywhere!

The hard part was finding them, often tucked away from mainstream avenues, which is never an easy task for me, nor for my companion as I prefer getting there by foot, not taxi. Fortunately my good sense of orientation paid off in the end.

I was much more interested in classical Turkish cuisine, rather than any modern fusion interpretations.  I never made it to the one on top of my list Ciya Sofrasi, which I designated for lunch, as they do not serve wines, which for me is something I really look forward to in the evening.

After very copious breakfasts of yogurt with several dried figs and apricots, multiple breads, cheeses, olives, cucumbers, tomatoes, along with plates of grilled eggplants and peppers for which Turkey is famous for, I frankly was never hungry during the rest of the day, even after hours of strenuous walking everywhere.

I found the Turkish wines generally decent, with one white outstanding, but expensive in comparison to the food, due to recently added taxes to an already struggling wine industry in this predominately Muslim nation. However, many Turks I met do love their Raki, a potent distilled liquor from aniseed.

Street food is ever-present, but I am never too keen on that anyway due to my sanitation concerns, especially seeing stuffed mussels for sale is blistering heat! I did want to try a grilled mackerel sandwich, freshly prepared along the banks of the ports, but didn’t.  I do a mean version of mackerel myself, sautéed and served with a spicy chermoula sauce.

Because the topography of Istanbul is composed of several very steep hills, I enjoyed all the cardio walking, which I like to do in Paris as well.   Fortunately I have strong legs and am in good shape, so that wasn’t a problem, just getting trapped behind the majority of residents who walk at a snail’s pace, that I am not at all used to here!

Besides all the wonderful memories I have, I did bring home everything on my wish list, including sumac, Alleppo red peper, a lovely urba black chilli pepper, a turkish black tea grown around the Black Sea, turkish coffee and those adorable copper coffee pots. Luckey I have a great turkish grocery in Paris where I can buy most of the spices, teas, cafe, cheeses, kaymak and other delectable Turkish foods, even fresh baked breads on Rue Faubourg Saint Denis in the 10th arrondissement.

Besides Turkey’s ancient architectural splendors in Istanbul and in Ephesus, the most splendid natural resource in Turkey, in my opinion ,is the wonderful hospitality and generous friendly spirit of the Turkish people!

Two times when our transport card was exhausted on the bus or trams, total strangers offered their own pass for us to get through the turnstiles and I witnessed that  for others in the same predicament.  Their genuine effort to be helpful, respectful, and open their hearts and homeland to tourists  made them one of the friendliest countries that I have visited!