La Rentree is upon us with full swing and to the French it is more than just back to school. There is such a sudden sharp contrast from last week to today. Things started to pick up this weekend and the streets are surging with people again, with a much higher noise level to match. There is a resurgence of energy everywhere!
I never really understood the societal and emotional impact of La Rentree until I had lived here a few years. The French allow themselves to have different rhythms of living more than we are accustomed to in America. Yes, we have our holidays, and if lucky a few days of vacation, but life in the U.S. just surges along with breakneck speed day after day.
La Rentree means literally “the return” which never fully translates the sudden change of activity and energy of a whole city and country. The experience of witnessing this cultural phenomena as an outsider is always fascinating to me.
Paris proper is a city of over 2 million people, swelling to over 6 million if counting the surrounding suburbs. The drastic change in noise level is for me the most enjoyable in July and especially in August when over half of the Parisians leave the city for the seaside or pastures of green.
Streets look deserted except for the areas around Notre Dame,Champs Elysee and the Eiffel Tower. Most of the better and smaller restaurants are closed for the whole month, along with boarded up storefronts of butchers, bakers., and green grocers.
No more lines at the supermarket, practically empty subway and buses to guarantee you a seat and having the sidewalk practically to yourself are pluses. It makes giving up your favorite vegetable lady at the marche or not being able to go to that small bistro tolerable..
Those are the tangible and noticeable things during August, but the mentality of the French literally changes to one of a total idleness and vacation mode whether they are on vacation or not. Government offices may be open, but only technically. You learn quickly not to even bother with any administrative demands during this time, because it will not even be looked at till September. It is the same with looking for jobs; just forget it!
The French will fight to make sure their vacation rights remain intact. Five to 7 weeks annually is the standard, in addition to all the bank holidays. With the 35 hour work per week, then any time worked over can be turned into time off.
Quality of life here is more important than making a buck. Real time to relax with family is valued above all else. Making enough money to live is considered good enough, not accumulating more so as to buy the latest this or that or impress others. Having good food to eat, a bon baguette and wine to drink with all that vacation time each year just makes for a richer life, that working extra can’t compete!
It is one of the things that American expats notice and really appreciate. It is this style of living that is more humane and in tune with human needs. The French have grown up with this mentality that is so different from ours. They are understandably intolerant to any effort to change this wonderful aspect of their life.
Vacations here are a right for all,not a privilege as considered in the states. This still on vacation mode lingers into the first two weeks of September as Parisians flock back to work, but grudgingly so. Their back to work blues may be understandable, but really all they have to do is think ahead to the end of October. Their traditional All Saints holiday has just been extended from 10 to 14 days. Vive la vie Francaise!
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Cherry, I love your blogs. This one especially means a lot to us. We used to wait until August to spend any length of time in Paris for the reasons you just spoke of. We would go over on a Saturday for brunch or even lunch, but in August we could visit places we loved without the crowds. Thanks for your blogs. Janet
Thank you Janet! Glad to hear you had the same impression of the slow down in August. It has been my favorite time too, especially since moving here. Thank you your interest in my blog!
If only Americans could experience this. I’m sure they would switch to this kind of life. But what about the big business owners? How are workers treated in France, Cherry?
Employees have so many perks and support in this country. If they are laid off, they receive almost 2 years of 75% of their salary I believe. All employees have a right to further their education or career with the employer picking up the bill. Continued full health care a big plus!
Big business owners, I am sure have their complaints, as I hear it is difficult to fire workers. I do not know enough about their plight to comment fully around this. Thank you Pam for your kind compliments and interest!
I also adore your choice of pictures in every blog, Cherry!!
Thank you Pam. They are from my own repertoire of photos, so some are not fantastic. This one was taken off the coast of Brittany last spring.